Aquatic Plant Care Guide: From Our Farm to Your Tank

Aquatic Plant Care Guide: From Our Farm to Your Tank

When You First Receive Them (Within 24 Hours of delivery)

We encourage our customers to inspect their plants carefully upon receiving them. We allow our customers 24 hours (for shipped products) to inspect the plants. For local pickup customers, we encourage them to inspect on-site and request substitutions as needed. If you have any problems, please send us an email at claims@driftaqua.com:

Subject line: (Order number)

Attach clear images of the problem within 24 hours of receiving the mail.

Grab-N-Grow™ Bag Note:

Grab-N-Grow™ plants are shelf-stable and do not need to be planted right away. If you do not have time immediately, they could be kept in an area with low-moderate lighting. Depends on the plant species and your conditions; some could last and grow within the bag for a month, some less. But we highly suggest keeping them in the bag for a maximum of 2 weeks, which is sufficient time for you to plan your aquascape perfectly. To ensure the plants are well hydrated, spray lightly once or twice a week with clean dechlorinated water or tank water, being mindful to only keep a thin layer of water in the bottom. 

To prepare the plants, carefully open the package and rinse the plants in running water to remove any grow media. The grow media is comprised of inert substrates with nutrient solution. The grow media are not harmful to the tank. The nutrient solution contains traces of ammoniacal nitrogen and copper; hence, rinsing the media off is recommended, especially for tanks with an immature nitrogen cycle.

 

How to Effectively Transition the Plants into Your Tank

Part 1: 1 hour before planting (Transition™ treatment)

Carefully take the plants out of their bags. Rinse off plants in running tap water to get rid of any attached grow media to the roots.

Dissolve the 2 capsules of DriftTech™ Transition capsule into 1 gallon (4L) of clean, dechlorinated water. Soak the plants for 60 minutes while you are assembling your tank. This step enhances their capacity to transition to your tank better, preventing melts and die-offs. 


Part 2: Plant Weights (Optional)

LEARN HOW TO USE THE PLANT WEIGHTS, CLICK HERE.


Part 3: First 30 days: The Transition Period

When plants shift from one environment to another, they experience significant stress and produce reactive oxygen species (ROS). This critical transition window requires careful management:

  • Reduce lighting intensity for the first month - aim for moderate levels, even if plants will eventually receive high light. Aim for moderate light intensity for 6 to 8 hours.
  • Expect some melting or leaf loss-this is normal as some plants need to get used to their new environment.
  • If there are any dying leaves, trim them off to help the plant allocate its resources towards acclimation, instead of reviving a dying leaf.
  • Maintain stable water parameters and avoid major changes during this period

Once established (30+ days), gradually increase lighting to desired levels.

 

Part 4: After 30 Days. Growth. Colors.

Once the plants have established themselves in your tank, you can gradually increase the light intensity to your target. If your tank only has green plants (anubias, ferns, etc), we suggest keeping the light intensity at a low to moderate level 6-8 hours per day to prevent algae growth.

For those who have more colorful plants, such as Pink Chai Hygrophila or Pink Lagenandra, higher lighting intensity and longer durations are recommended to bring out the colors. To boost growth, CO2 is highly recommended. 

For red and colorful plants, a simple trick: keep track of nitrate levels. You want to aim for low nitrate levels. High nitrates cause plants to develop more green pigments. Keep nitrates between 5-10 ppm to keep colors as bright as possible while promoting growth. 

 

PLANT TYPES AND THEIR CARE:

Epiphytes (Anubias, Bucephalandra, Ferns)

Attachment & Placement:

  • Do not bury rhizomes in substrate - this causes rot
  • Attach to hardscape (wood, rock) using thread, gel glue, or wedging into crevices
  • Can be left floating initially; will attach naturally over time
  • Position based on light preference: most prefer low to moderate lighting

Care:

  • Minimal nutrient requirements - absorb primarily through leaves
  • Benefit from liquid fertilizers in the water column
  • Slow growing - perfect for low-maintenance setups
  • Wipe leaves gently during water changes to prevent algae buildup
  • Prone to algae due to slow growth - maintain good flow around leaves

Common Issues:

  • Yellow leaves: Nutrient deficiency, add liquid fertilizer
  • Black/brown rhizome: Rot from burial or poor flow
  • Algae on leaves: Reduce lighting, improve flow, spot-treat if needed


Stem Plants

Planting:

  • Plant stems 2-3 cm deep in substrate
  • Space 1-2 cm apart for carpeting effect, or individually for distinct stems
  • Remove lower leaves before planting to prevent rot
  • Plant in groups of 3-5 stems for visual impact

Care:

  • Fast growing - require regular trimming (weekly to bi-weekly)
  • Heavy feeders: need both water column nutrients and root fertilization
  • Trim and replant tops to maintain compact growth
  • Remove bottom portions as they become leggy or lose lower leaves

Light & CO2:

  • Most stem plants prefer moderate to high lighting
  • Many benefit significantly from CO2 supplementation
  • Insufficient light causes stretching (long internodes)
  • High light without adequate nutrients causes poor coloration


Rosette Plants & Root Feeders (Crypts, Swords, Vallisneria)

Planting:

  • Bury roots completely, but keep crown (where leaves emerge) above the substrate
  • Use root tabs near heavy feeders like swords
  • Allow adequate spacing - these plants can grow quite large
  • Deep substrate (5+ cm) benefits root development

Care:

  • Primary nutrient uptake through roots. Root tabs are highly recommended for large species
  • Supplement with liquid fertilizers for micronutrients
  • Generally slower growing than stem plants
  • Remove old/dying outer leaves as new growth emerges
  • Many species (especially Crypts) will "melt" during transition but they'll regrow new leaves once established.

Species Notes:

  • Crypts: Extremely sensitive to parameter changes, may melt completely, but will recover
  • Swords: Heavy root feeders require regular root tab replenishment
  • Vallisneria: Propagate via runners, can quickly fill background areas


Mosses

3 ways to plant mosses:

  1. Tie to hardscape with thread or fishing line initially
  2. Use gel glue for immediate attachment
  3. Can be left as floating mats, though less aesthetically pleasing, but will provide a great hiding place and refuge for fish fry and shrimps

Care:

  • Low light to moderate light preferred
  • Do not bury - attach to surfaces only
  • Benefit from good water flow to prevent debris accumulation
  • Trim with scissors to maintain shape and encourage dense growth
  • Very prone to algae due to dense structure - maintain excellent flow

Maintenance:

  • Regularly remove trapped debris with tweezers
  • Trim overgrown sections to prevent lower layers from dying
  • Dense moss can harbor detritus - occasional gentle swishing helps
  • DriftTech Feed+Activate supports healthy growth without encouraging algae

Algae Management:

  • Prevent with good flow, moderate lighting, and stable parameters
  • Treat early before algae penetrates dense growth
  • Spot-treat with care as moss can be sensitive to chemical treatments


General Tips

Water Parameters:

  • Maintain stable conditions - fluctuations cause stress
  • Most plants thrive in slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.5-7.5)
  • Soft to moderately hard water is preferred by most species
  • Regular water changes (20-30% weekly) ensure there is no buildup of certain nutrients like nitrogen (nitrates, nitrites, ammonia) in the system. Most liquid fertilizers were formulated assuming a weekly water change.

Fertilization:

  • Supplement with root tabs for heavy root feeders
  • Adjust dosing based on plant mass and growth rates
  • Underdosing is safer than overdosing: start low, increase if needed

Lighting:

  • Start low, increase gradually
  • 6-8 hours daily for most setups
  • Higher light = higher nutrient demand and CO2 benefit
  • Timer consistency helps prevent algae

CO2:

  • Not required for many species, but accelerates growth
  • Essential for high-light, high-demand setups
  • Start with moderate injection, increase based on plant response
  • Monitor pH swing to ensure fish safety

Remember: Patience during the transition period pays off. Plants that successfully adapt to your aquarium conditions will thrive long-term with consistent care.

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